What's the Catch?
By: John Francis
If there’s any doubt that Chef Yves Vacheresse of The Ritz-Carlton, Sarasota is dedicated to cooking with sustainable seafood, his menu dispels it in black and white: “Being aware that most of the world’s wild fisheries are being overfished and that the farming practices of most aquacultures impact negatively the health of our oceans, Chef Yves and his staff are pleased to serve you seafood species that support ocean conservation.”
Good-bye, grouper. So long, swordfish. Ciao, Chilean sea bass.
Vacheresse’s award-winning restaurant, Vernona, spotlights sturgeon raised at Mote Aquaculture Park on its spring menu. It’s a short trip from tank to linen-covered table for the fabled fish, which produces the pricey caviar beloved by gourmets. The park lies 17 miles from the coast; The Ritz-Carlton sits right on Sarasota Bay.
“It makes such a huge difference when you can get it at the back door,” chef Vacheresse said. “It doesn’t travel far. It’s the freshest.”
A native of Lyon, France, Vacheresse is committed to using local ingredients whenever possible. His produce comes from certified organic farms in Sarasota, Punta Gorda and Ocala. “In Europe, there is a strong connection between chefs and farmers,” he said. “It fosters a sense of community.”
Vacheresse calls his dish Myakka sturgeon to add a dash of regional color — but it’s not raised in the Myakka River, of course.
Pan-searing the fillet at a very high temperature seals in the fish’s natural oils and moisture while creating a light bronze crust. The meat’s texture remains firm and dense, yet flakes easily. Vacheresse pairs the fish with a peppery poivrade sauce that contrasts the creaminess of the fish and the richness of the leek and heirloom potato fondue that accompanies it. For wine, the chef suggests a light red like Vernona’s organic Chateau Bousquette Prestige St. Chinian.
Vernona’s plush decor is a far cry from the rural aquaculture park. The dining room’s yellow walls mimic a sunny room in an Italian villa, with gracefully arched windows, floral murals and upholstery, and gleaming crystal chandeliers. European travelers and Sarasota’s elite meet in its elegant interior.
Since opening in November 2001, Vernona has earned accolades including the Mobil Four-Star and the AAA Four Diamond awards. It added a new Florida Trend Golden Spoon Award to its collection this year.
Vacheresse, whose first taste of sturgeon was at a Russian restaurant in New York, said the farm-raised fish has a finer, more delicate flavor than the wild species, most of which come from the Black and Caspian Seas. In October 2005, the U.S. government banned imports of sturgeon and their caviar from both sources until conservation efforts improve.
Mote is poised to help fill the gap by developing the technology needed for the commercial-scale production of sturgeon. Its 200-acre aquaculture park includes a demonstration project that began raising sturgeon in 1998 and started distribution last year. Within the next six years, it plans to harvest 165,000 pounds of meat and 10,000 pounds of caviar annually. While these numbers are small compared to overall demand, Mote hopes to spawn a successful aquaculture industry in Florida by helping others invest in the model.
The goal is to save wild fish and bring food production home to the United States, which imports about 70 percent of its seafood, according to the national Fish Farming News.
Farm-raised sturgeon already has won a seal of approval from Seafood Watch, a program promoted by California’s Monterey Bay Aquarium to encourage better fish harvesting and farming to spare depleted species.
That’s a mission that’s easy for chefs like Vacheresse to swallow. “It’s really imperative to be conscious of using sustainable modern agriculture,” he said. “With fish, three-quarters of the wild stocks are depleted or severely overfished. (With Mote) we are creating an abundant source while respecting the environment.”
Pan Roasted Myakka Sturgeon
with Potato Fondue and Crispy Chorizo
Chef Yves Vacheresse
A signature recipe from Vernona restaurant
at The Ritz-Carlton, Sarasota
| 2 pounds |
Fingerling potatoes |
| 3 each |
Leeks, cleaned & diced medium |
| 2 ounces | Butter |
| 2 cups |
Chicken stock |
| 2 full ounces |
White Truffle Oil |
| 1/2 cup | Crème Fraiche (optional) |
| 1/2 pound |
Chorizo sausage, julienned |
| 3 lbs |
Myakka sturgeon fillets, cut into 6- to 7-ounce cutlets |
| 2 tablespoons | Grapeseed oil |
Method
1. Steam or boil fingerling potatoes. Cook until soft. Drain from water (if boiling). Let cool until warm and peel. Slice into 1/4 inch discs. Reserve.
2. Melt butter in a medium saucepan on a medium fire. Add leeks. Sweat for 40 to 45 minutes until leeks have rendered most of their water and are completely soft. Add potatoes and stock. Simmer for another 30 minutes until potatoes begin to fall apart.
3. Add truffle oil and crème fraiche (if using). Season with salt and pepper. Keep warm.
4. Saute chorizo julienne in frying pan on medium fire until crispy. Drain on a paper towel and keep warm.
5. Heat cast-iron skillet. Add oil. Place seasoned Myakka sturgeon bone-side down. Sear for 11/2 to 2 minutes until crispy and dark brown. Place in oven as is and roast in oven for 5 to 6 minutes. Let rest for 2 to 3 minutes before serving.
To serve
Spoon fondue in center of a large pasta bowl. Place fish on top. Garnish with a large pinch of fried chorizo.
Enjoy!
- Vernona at The Ritz-Carlton, Sarasota -
1111 Ritz-Carlton Drive, Sarasota; (941) 309-2000.
Learn more about: Mote Sturgeon, Mote Sturgeon Products
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Mote Marine Laboratory has been a leader in marine research since it was founded in 1955. Today, we incorporate public outreach as a key part of our mission. Mote is an independent nonprofit organization and has seven centers for marine research, the public Mote Aquarium and an Education Division specializing in public programs for all ages.
